Private Tours of Cartagena
Destination Cartagena arranges private tours of the city, whether by private car, van or bus.
Cartagena Tours, with Dora De Zubiria Dora will customize a tour of Cartagena or the surrounding area, and meet you at the pier. She comes highly recommended.
Diversitours offers three two-hour guided tours of Cartagena, led by "the Professor," a local academic who will tailor a tour to your specific interests.
Historical Buildings Outside of the Walled Old Town
La Popa Convent
The La Popa Convent stands almost 500 feet above the city of Cartagena on Cerro La Popa (La Popa Hill). The Spanish word "Popa" doesn't refer to the Pope, but is translated as "stern," because of the hill's resemblance to the stern of a Galleon.
The original convent, built in 1607, was commissioned by the city fathers for the church members who assisted in the clearing of the area. This convent, known as the Convento de Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria, was constructed out of wood, and was administered by Augustine fathers. The wood structure was later replaced by a stone church, and an inn was built to receive visitors and pilgrims.
During the revolution that led to the expulsion of the Spanish in 1821, the church was used as a fortress and as headquarters for the insurrection. Yet after the Colombians gained their independence, the church's subsidies from the state ceased, and the facility was abandoned. Restoration of the Convent began in 1964 by the Augustinian order.
Today, you will find a monastery, a chapel and a museum. The chapel contains an ornate 22-carat gold foil altar, and respite can be found in its flower-filled courtyard. The views of Cartagena, the Caribbean and the surrounding areas from the Convent are quite spectacular.
Location: on the Cerro La Popa
Visiting hours: Daily, 8:00 am to 5:30 pm
Admission: Adults, $6,000 pesos; Children and Seniors, $4,000 pesos
San Felipe de Barajas Fortress (Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas)
With a dominating position on the Cerro de San Lazaro (San Lazaro Hill) overlooking the city of Cartagena and Cartagena Bay, the San Felipe de Barajas Fortress has been called the utmost achievement in military fortification built by the Spanish in the New World. In 1536, the Spanish Crown commissioned the design and construction of the initial fort. Originally named the Castillo de San Lazaro, the first structure built was known as the Bonete, which is a triangular structure at the highest point of the hill.
After the infamous siege and attack on the city by the French Baron de Pointis in 1697, the fort was expanded and reinforced by Spanish military engineer Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor during the period 1717 to 1730. Additional collateral batteries were added to the fort, now named the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, by Spanish engineer Antonio de Arevalo after the 1741 siege of the city by British admiral Vernon. All of the original construction of the fortress, as well as the later additions, relied on slave labor.
Location: on the Cerro de San Lazaro
Visiting hours: Daily, 8:00 am to 6:00 pm
Admission: Adults, $12,000 pesos; Children and Seniors, $7,000 pesos
Fort San Fernando (Fuerte de San Fernando)
Originally, the mouth of the Bocachica Strait was defended by four coastal batteries that protected the only entrance to Cartagena Bay. These batteries--including the Chamba, San Felipe and Santiago Batteries, located on Isla Tierra Bomba, and the San Jose Battery, located in the center of the Strait--were constructed between 1718 and 1730. A larger fort—the Castillo San Luis de Bocachica, located at the very southern end of Isla Tierra Bomba--provided crossing fire. The Castillo and the four batteries suffered severe damage during the 1741 British siege of the city.
After the siege, the Chamba, San Felipe and Santiago Batteries were abandoned. From 1751 to 1759, the San Jose Battery was rebuilt as its defenses improved, while the Castillo San Luis was replaced by Fort San Fernando, on which construction began in 1753. The Fort is surrounded by a moat, and its many tunnels are inhabited by bats. As part of the port's defenses, a giant chain was hauled across the Bocachica strait, from the fort to the San Jose Battery to the opposite side, to prevent unwanted ships from entering Cartagena Bay. In later years, it was used as a prison.
To get to Fort San Fernando, head to the Muelle de los Pegasos, a wharf across from the Clock Tower in front of the Plaza de los Coches. Local boats leave during the day every 30-45, and the ride to Bocachica takes about 15 minutes. Guides will try to sell you expensive "all inclusive" trips to Bocachica, but you should pay just the local fare--$5,000 pesos one way. Once you ask for the price it will get more expensive.
Plazas in the Walled Old Town
Plaza de los Coches: Situated directly in back of the Puerta del Reloj (Clock Tower), the Plaza de los Coches was the first square visitors encountered when they made their way into the walled city. In Colonial times, the plaza was used as a marketplace for the selling and bartering of slaves. Here you'll find a statue of Pedro de Heredia, the city's founder, in the old slave market. Under the arches on one side of the plaza you'll find El Portal de Los Dulces, a marketplace where the vendors sell candies from tall glass jars. You'll also see some of the horse-drawn carriages awaiting their fares in the plaza.
Plaza de la Aduana: The oldest and largest plaza in Cartagena, the Plaza de la Aduana once served as the center of commerce in Colonial Cartagena, when ships' cargos were offloaded and stored in the adjacent buildings. Today, it's used as a parade grounds on festival days. You'll see a statue of Christopher Columbus in the center of the plaza. There are a few banks and ATMs located on the square.
Plaza de Bolivar: This square is truly the center of the city. Surrounding the leafy park you'll find the Inquisition Palace on one side and the Gold Museum on the other. The Cathedral is located in a corner of the square. In the center of the square is a statue of Simon Bolivar, astride his horse, that was made in Germany. It's a good place to sit and do some people watching. Inexpensive fruit and food stalls can be found around the square, and the Plaza de Bolivar is one of the sites in the city where young buskers put on a frenetic Mapale dance for the pleasure of the onlookers.
Plaza de San Pedro Claver: Directly in front of the Iglesia San Pedro Claver, the Plaza is a very popular place for the locals to kick back and relax. In the plaza you'll find a series of modern metal sculptures depicting the everyday life of the modern residents of Centro. In addition, you'll find the Modern Art Museum and several trendy restaurants that spill out onto the plaza.
Plaza de Santo Domingo: One of the more pleasant plazas in Cartagena, the Plaza de Santo Domingo is named after the church, the Iglesia Santo Domingo that fronts the plaza. Here you'll also find a number of cafes that spill out into the plaza, boutiques, antique shops, as well as the magnificent Fernando Botero bronze statue Mujer Reclinada (reclining woman).
Plaza de San Diego: This is a small square in the San Diego neighborhood, which is often viewed as the classiest and most sophisticated parts of Cartagena. Around the square you'll find a number of restored houses that have been transformed into luxury hotels and high-end dining establishments.
Historical Buildings Inside the Walled Old Town
Inquisition Palace (Palacio de la Inquisicion)
On February 5, 1610, King Philip II established the Inquisition Holy Office Court in Cartagena. The purpose of the Inquisition was to ensure the religious unity of the Spanish monarchy. The jurisdiction of the court encompassed today's states of Venezuela, Colombia, Bolivia, Panama, Costa Rica and Nicaragua.
The original Inquisition Palace was located in a house on the Plaza de Bolivar at the Actuary's Portico. Construction on the current facility, with its Baroque entrance, was completed in 1770. Its facade, the grates of the first story and the balconies on the second story are characteristic of many of the Colonial houses built during the 18th century. Around the corner from the building's front entrance is a small window adorned with a cross. It was from this window that the sentences of the accused were announced to the public. Records indicate that approximately 780 people were found guilty and put to death.
One reason for the establishment of the Inquisition in Cartagena was the diversity of religious beliefs of the slaves imported to the city, which they continued to practice after their arrival in the New World. Typically, the accused were alleged to have engaged in blasphemy, sorcery or witchcraft, and had to undergo a series of "tests" to ascertain their culpability. The accused were also weighed—often to see if they weighed more than a feather—after which they were tortured and killed.
The Inquisition Office remained active in Cartagena until the revolution of 1811. It reappeared in 1815, under the stewardship of Pablo Morillo, and was once again active until 1821, when the Spanish were finally expelled from the country. Upon the departure of the Spanish, enraged citizens of Cartagena mobbed the hated Palace, removed the torture devices and burned them.
On the first floor of the Inquisition Palace you'll find replicas of a number of torture implements used during the Inquisition, including a rack and a scale used to weigh the accused. The second floor is a small museum dedicated to the history of Cartagena, with models depicting the urban evolution of the city and finely detailed dioramas of several of the city's famous sites. You'll also find a step-on map showing the routes that the Spanish Galleons took on their voyages to and from Spain.
Location: at the Plaza de Bolivar
Visiting hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 9:00 am to 6:00 pm; Sunday, 10:00 am to 4:00 pm; closed Mondays
Admission: Adults, $11,000 pesos; Children and Seniors, $8,000 pesos
Cartagena Cathedral (La Catedral)
Also known as the Basilica Menor, the Cartagena Cathedral traces its history back to 1537. The first church was built out of wood and cane, and was destroyed in a terrible fire in 1552. Twenty three years later, construction was begun on a new cathedral, designed by Simon Gonzalez. During his 1586 raid on the city, Francis Drake's cannons destroyed half of the building. Afterwards, Gonzalez continued his work directing the construction of the building until its completion in 1612.
The cathedral features a large doorway opening into a narrow, simple interior with thick white columns and large arches. The gilded 18th century wood altar is complemented by a pulpit comprised of marble, mosaics and monstrance. The building underwent a restoration in 2007.
Location: adjacent to the Plaza de Bolivar
Visiting hours: Monday to Saturday, 10:30 am to 7:30 pm; Sunday, 9:00 am to 6:00 pm
Admission: Adults, $11,000 pesos; Children and Seniors, $7,000 pesos
Santo Domingo Church (Iglesia de Santo Domingo)
The Iglesia de Santo Domingo is perhaps the oldest church to be found in Cartagena. It was founded in 1551, and was located in the Plaza de los Coches. After a fire destroyed the original building, the church was relocated to the current site. Construction of the building began in 1579, but funding problems delayed its completion for almost 120 years. The church is notable for a steeple that is crooked; it is said that the steeple was twisted by the devil. Inside the building you will find a Baroque altar with a 16th century wooden carving depicting an image of Christ, as well as an image of the Virgin Mary with a gold and emerald crown.
Location: at the Plaza de Santo Domingo
Visiting hours: Tuesday through Sunday, noon to 8:00 pm
Admission: Adults, $11,000 pesos; Children and Seniors, $7,000 pesos
Convent of San Pedro Claver (Convento de San Pedro Claver)
The Convent of San Pedro Claver complex is located on the Plaza San Pedro Claver, in the southern end of the walled city. The complex includes the church, the cloister and a museum. The convent was founded by the Jesuits in the early part of the 17th century, when it was known as Convento de San Ignacio de Loyola. The name was changed to that of San Pedro Claver in honor of his work as the "slave to the slaves."
Born in the Catalonian city of Verdu in 1580, Pedro Claver took his vows at the age of 22. He arrived in Cartagena in 1610 and immediately took up his work to minister to the more than 10,000 African slaves that were brought to Cartagena each year. It is said that as soon as a slave ship entered the port, Claver moved into its infested hold to minister to the ill-treated and miserable passengers. He provided them with medicines, food, bread, brandy, lemons and tobacco. With the help of interpreters he gave basic instructions and assured his brothers and sisters of their human dignity and God's saving love. During his 44 years is Cartagena, he is said to have baptized over 300,000 slaves. Pedro Claver was beatified in 1850, and canonized in 1888 by Pope Leo XIII—the first person from South America to have been given this honor.
The complex includes the Cloister courtyard, with large trees shading the well where Pedro Claver baptized the slaves. The adjoining museum features artwork, drawings and other treasures commemorating the life and times of Pedro Claver. The San Pedro Claver Church (Iglesia de San Pedro Claver), erected in the early part of the 18th century, contains the remains of Claver in a glass coffin in the altar.
Location: at the Plaza de San Pedro Claver
Visiting hours: Monday to Friday, 8:30 am to 5:30 pm; Saturday and Sunday 8:00 pm to 4:30 pm
Admission: Adults, $6,000 pesos and Children, $4,000 pesos
Heredia Theater
Constructed in 1911 in commemoration of the Centennial of Cartagena's independence, the Heredia Theater was designed by Colombian architect Luis Felipe Jaspe. It was built on the ruins of the Church of the Mercy, built in 1625. During the 20th century, the theater, named after the founder of the city of Cartagena, fell into disrepair.
The theater was restored in 1998 under the direction of Cartagenan architect Alberto Samudio Trallero. Today it is used as Cartagena's center of performing arts, with productions including ballet and theater. The intimate U-shaped theater features an ornate gold-leaf interior, with stairs and sculptures of Italian marble. The ceiling features artwork painted by the acclaimed Cartagenan artist Enrique Grau. If you're visiting the theater, it's hard to miss the beautiful Cartagena-themed curtain.
Museums
Gold Museum (Museo del Oro y Arqueología)
Cartagena's Gold Museum is one of several museums owned and operated by the Banco de la Republica, Colombia's central bank. The museum focuses on artifacts created by the Sinu people, a pre-Columbian culture that inhabited the regions surrounding Cartagena.
The Sinu built an extensive system of waterways that was used for more than thirteen centuries to drain off the floodwaters. Farmers, fishermen, traders, goldsmiths and weavers were organized in towns that were governed by local lords who paid tribute to regional chieftains like Finzenu, who ruled over the River Sinu. Agriculture, fishing, hunting and the bartering of raw materials and manufactured products (such as ceramics, gold objects and woven baskets) formed the basis of the Sinu economy.
The museum's collection consists of 89 art objects made of gold and ceramics. It is suggested that visitors begin their visit on the second floor.
Location: at the Plaza de Bolivar
Visiting hours: Tuesday to Friday, 9:00 to 11:45 am and from 2:30 to 6:00 pm; Saturday, 9:30 to 11:45 am; Sundays and holidays, 9:30 am to 12:30 pm.
Admission: Free
Naval Museum (Museo Naval del Caribe)
With exhibits highlighting Colombia's naval history from the Colonial to the Republican periods, the Naval Museum was established in 1992 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Columbus's discovery of the New World. The museum features an exhibition hall that contains naval artifacts and scale models of Spanish Galleons and other ships that were part of Cartagena's naval heritage, as well as a theater where folkloric dancers perform. The building was originally built as a Jesuit school that was part of the San Pedro Claver church.
Location: at the Plaza de Bolivar
Visiting hours: Daily, 10:00 am to 8:00 pm
Admission: Adults, $6,000 pesos; Children, $3,000 pesos
Rafael Nunez House and Museum
Rafael Nunez, a lawyer, judge and poet, was elected four times to Colombia's presidency. Known as El Regenerador, Nunez was twice elected as the president of the United States of Colombia (1880 to 1882, and 1884 to 1886), and twice again as the president of the Republic of Colombia (1887 to 1892, and 1892 to 1894). Nunez was a leader of the Liberal Party and served as one of the authors of the constitution of 1886; he also wrote the words to the Colombian National Anthem.
Nunez was born in Cartagena and spent much of his life there, rising to a number of city and state political positions before his involvement in national politics. He lived in his Cartagena residence from 1888 until his death in 1894.
The Nunez House museum, constructed of wood, is a mansion located just a short 3-minute walk from the walls of Los Bovedas. The museum contains several of Nunez's personal artifacts and documents. His ashes are interred across the street, at the Emertia del Cabrero chapel.
Location: In the El Cabrero neighborhood, a 3 minute walk from Las Bovedas
Visiting hours: Monday through Sunday, 10:00 am to 6:00 pm
Admission: Adults, $6,000 pesos; Children, $3,000 pesos
Modern Art Museum (Museo de Arte Moderno)
The Modern Art Museum, located on the Plaza San Pedro Claver next to the church and convent, was established in 1979. It was begun with a grant from the Organization of American States, and its initial collection consisted of Latin American paintings from the 1950s. Since its founding, the Museum collection has been enlarged. The facility's permanent collection is housed in Room 1.
The museum is housed in two buildings of note. The main building was constructed in the second half of the 17th century as the first Customhouse in Cartagena. The second building was built in 1875 as a weapons storage facility (Sala de Armas). Later, the building became a shop where artillery pieces were constructed and repaired.
Location: at the Plaza de San Pedro Claver
Visiting hours: Tuesday to Friday, 9:30 am to 12:30 pm and 3:00 pm to 6:30 pm
Admission: Adults and Children, $3,000 pesos
Enrique Grau Museum
Enrique Grau was a Colombian artist, renowned for his depictions of Amerindian and Afro Colombian figures. He was a member of the triumvirate of key Colombian artists of the 20th century which included Fernando Botero and Alejandro Obregon.
Grau was born in 1920 in Panama City, Panama, and raised in Cartagena. A self-made artist, he was influenced by the Colombian Masters Ignacio Gomez Jaramillo, Santiago Martinez Delgado and Pedro Nel Gomez. Grau studied at the Art Students League in New York, in the early 1940s. He later toured Italy, where he learned etching and fresco techniques before returning to the city of Cartagena.
Grau won the Salon de Artistas Colombianos award in 1957, launching a well-established career in the arts. His associations of white, black and indigenous figures and objects such as masks, eggs, fruit or cages brought him international fame, with exhibitions at the Guggenheim Museum in New York City and the Paris Museum of Modern Art. Grau donated 1,300 works of art (including some by other artists) to the city of Cartagena; these were used to establish the Enrique Grau Museum, located in a Republican House owned by the Colombian Coffee Growers Federation. The museum opened in 2004.
Grau died in Bogota in 2004 at the age of 83.
Beaches in Cartagena
The Bocagrande peninsula features a long brown sand beach along the Caribbean side of the peninsula. The beach is narrow, and heavily populated. Vendors are a pain in the neck on the beach, selling everything from beverages to massages.
Punta Arena, a fishing village on the island of Tierra Bomba, has probably the nicest beaches close to Cartagena. Punta Arena is accessed by boats ("lanchas") that leave from the Muelle de los Pegasos (a wharf in front of the Clock Tower in Centro) or by boats leaving from Laguito, next to the Hilton Hotel on the Bocagrande peninsula. The boat ride takes about 10 minutes. In Punta Arena you'll find several restaurants serving food and drinks. Punta Arena is a good place to kick back and enjoy a day hanging out under palm trees with a fantastic view of the skyline of Cartagena.
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